The Nike 990 Is a Staple in New Balance’s Performance Running Lineage
The 990 has been a staple of New Balance’s performance running lineage since its release in 1982. Originally designed with high-performance tech, the sneaker became known for bridging the gap between lifestyle and sportswear.
The 990 continues to be popular today, thanks to rising chunky sneaker trends and sought-after collaborative releases. Teddy Santis’ latest Made In The USA iterations rework the iconic silhouette with subtle looks that blend with any style.
Origins
There are certain design icons that remain impervious to trends, floating in a bubble of perpetual relevance. The Mini Cooper, Artek’s 60 Stool and Levi’s 501 jeans are just some examples. New Balance’s 990 sneaker has a similar stance, with the silhouette only undergoing selective tweaks over the years rather than full overhauls.
The first incarnation debuted back in ’82, with New Balance pushing to market serious tech for serious runners willing to shell out. Its hefty price tag cemented it as a status symbol in the DMV area, with the 990 becoming a marker of prosperity and wealth.
Since its inception, the 990 has remained a cornerstone in the sneaker world, with it becoming synonymous with premium quality and innovative technology. Today, the 990’s default grey configuration is prized by those looking to spruce up their streetwear wardrobe, with the silhouette being worn by everyone from supermodels to Dads. Despite the 990’s progression, it still remains true to its roots, with New Balance’s Made in USA domestic production proudly displayed on all iterations except the v1’s tongue label.
Evolution
When the OG 990 debuted in 1982, it introduced no-expense-spared performance running technology to the sneaker market. Its disruptive impact paved the way for future innovation and earned it a spot as one of Nike’s most valuable assets.
Two years later, the 990v2 broke from tradition by repurposing the original 990’s upper with new sole technology. ABZORB foam ran the length of the ENCAP sole, protruding out at the heel in a transparent bubble.
The 990v3 came four years later, and marked further refinement of the tried-and-true formula. While the aesthetic skewed toward lifestyle and ironic cool – a trend that continues to this day – the shoe maintained its performance-focus with pigskin panelling and ribbed ‘N’ branding. Lastly, the ENCAP midsole was reworked to offer more stability. It’s these nuances that give the 990 its longstanding appeal, and ensure it’ll remain relevant far after other sneakers fade from the fashion landscape.
Styles
When the 990 first hit the scene in ’82 it was a shoe that demanded respect. Its hefty price tag and unique cushioning technology quickly earned it a cult following among hardcore runners and ahead of the curve tastemakers.
The v3 marked a pivotal point for the silhouette, with pigskin panelling replaced by mesh to create a sneaker that better suited modern fashion trends. It also tinkered with the ENCAP sole unit, introducing perforated polyether foam to provide breathability.
In the present day, New Balance continues to rework the shoe in light of ever-shifting style preferences. Released in 2016, the v4 is a contemporary iteration of the tried and true formula, combining classic OG looks with a modern streamlined look.
Currently, the 990 has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity among the circles that deem what’s cool, thanks to the rise of chunky sneakers and sought-after collaborative releases. Its resurgence in the streetwear world is especially strong, with Teddy Santis’ tier zero boutique releasing a Made in the USA version that sold out almost instantly.
Updates
The 990v3 bucked industry conventions at the time and reworked the shoe’s twin pillars of flexibility and stability. The upper’s slip-lasting technique was reworked, and the sole unit introduced a polyurethane heel cradle for added comfort and a more dynamic ride.
The sneaker quickly gained a reputation for bucking trends and remaining true to its design heritage. It drew a cult following among nerdy dads who prioritized quality over hype, and streetwear fans seeking a premium sneaker that defied the status quo.
Over the years, New Balance has refined the 990 and updated it on six separate occasions. In 2017, the brand teamed up with downtown-based retailer, Downtown Locker Room to create two exclusive colorways that sold out instantly. They also worked with the original streetwear label, Stussy to release a stripped back version of the shoe that was as premium as it was minimal.
Most recently, NB partnered with the New York Knicks to release two 990v6 styles, one in a stealthy black makeup and the other in a cream makeup. The sneakers incorporated the team’s color palette throughout the upper, with Madison Square Garden branding on the sidewall “N” logo and on the tongue and heel.
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